GreedyGlinks
JapaneseRoyal William Yard, Plymouth · £££

Kintsugi

Tucked into the old naval yard, a twelve-seat counter doing salmon teriyaki that made the whole table go silent. Believe the hype, then add some.

Honey teriyaki salmon
Honey teriyaki salmon

The Greed Score

9.4/ 10

Religious experience

Order this

Honey teriyaki salmon

Karaage to start, the salmon to finish, and whatever the chef points at in between.

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The most quietly confident plate of food in Plymouth right now.

There is a particular kind of restaurant that does not need to shout, and Kintsugi is the loudest example of it in the city. Twelve seats around a blonde-wood counter inside Royal William Yard, a soundtrack you can barely hear, and a kitchen that treats every plate like it is being marked.

The honey teriyaki salmon is the headline and it earns it: lacquered, blistered, the skin shattering like toffee over flesh that is somehow both firm and giving. The karaage that opens the meal is the best fried chicken we have eaten this year and it is not close.

Is it expensive by Plymouth standards? A little. Is it worth dressing up and booking three weeks out for? Absolutely. We left planning our next visit before we had reached the cobbles outside.

What we loved

  • + Faultless cooking
  • + Genuinely warm service
  • + Counter theatre

The niggles

  • Books out fast
  • Not a budget night

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